Photography Tips (4)

SIMPLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Simple tips on the basics of photography by Trevor James @ www.trevorjamesphotography.com

Last week we spoke about the use of natural light, and its use in many different setting and circumstances such as direct sunlight, cloudy and overcast days, mixed lighting where in open spaces there are other forms of light as well as natural, and ways of overcoming the issues we all have with the finished image on print, such as the use of Auto White Balance (AWB) manipulations and Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB), and the like. This week I want to chat about the use of artificial light and in particular flash light.

FLASHLIGHT

I guess that in truth there are two type of flashlight in question here: we have the typical built-in flash that we have on most cameras (compact and some DSLR types) and external flashlight.

Cameras with built-in flash

These are very useful gadgets to have when taking snapshots or when there is not enough light and none can be added from other forms in any other way. My thoughts are that this should be considered as a last resort most of the time due to the shadows that it often produces on the image as it hits the subject at an awkward angle from the camera. Some cameras are fortunate enough to come with a 'flash exposure compensation' mode built in, enabling some reduction of balance of flash light relative to the natural light (usually called fill-flash). This is used to lighten some shadowed areas within the proximity of mostly portraiture subjects within close range, or as a catchlight to stop motion.

External flash

A flash light mounted onto a camera can be used in pretty much the same way as above but, also allows you to change the direction of the flash light to allow bouncing of light and thus soften both the light falling onto the subject but letting it fall from another angle (off a wall at the sides or bouncing down from above, such as a ceiling). The range is still pretty restrictive, but hey, we are not wanting to shoot into infinity to pick up subjects in the distance as when taking landscape photography. Most uses of a flash with a camera will be for the more closer work such as with macro photography or still life and portraiture.

If your camera has exposure compensation this can be used to get the best form of balance between the use of existing light and light coming from the flash. The closer you are to the subject the more important is the use of exposure compensation.

Some of the issues to be aware of when using any kind of flash light are listed and briefly explained below

• Red Eye - caused by light from the flash reflected back from the subject's retina to the camera. This can be avoided either make full use of the camera's 'red eye reduction' button if your camera has one, or, the best strategy yet is to shoot so that the angle between the flash and the lens to the subject's eyes is greater than five degrees - or simply to get the subject to look slightly away from the camera. Another option is to set the camera for use so that a flash is not needed. You are more likely to get red eye when shooting in a dark environment because naturally the subject's pupils will be wider.

• Motion Trails - This usually occurs when the camera flash or the external flash is out of sync with the camera. Quite possibly all modern DSLR cameras today have the fx sync mode setting automatically set in the camera, allowing the shutter of the camera to become synchronised with the flash (usually set somewhere between 1/60 - 1/250 sec.). However, I am not suggesting that this finished image with motion trails is a bad image taken as some would argue that it adds to the photograph and have purposely set out to take this kind of shot, it's just that sometimes if the camera and the flash are not synchronised you will inevitably get this effect even though you tried not to.

• Flare Spots - Any reflective surface like gloss paint or glass that is straight on to the camera when a flash is being used will record as a 'flare spot'. Inevitably, the nearer parts of any scene will receive more light than the furthest areas, and this can often destroy the sense of 'depth of field' (discussed in next week's photography tips).

There are other ailments when using a flash, but I am not here to bog you down with all the things I know or don't know, just simply to help you guys out there taking photos to perhaps think about the image you are taking and the one you want to have on print, and take it with more thought.

Flash pictures usually have some kind of uniformity with them, in as much as that they tend to all look fairly much the same. Don't let this become a hinderance and put you off flash photography. most, if not all, of the issues discussed above can be either avoided or minimised by just given a little more consideration to the existing light available, the angle of artificial light, the distance of the subject from the camera, the angle of the subject to the camera, as well as the patience of the photographer to really want to achieve the best he can possible achieve.

Next week we will be looking at 'Depth of Field'

ENJOY

Images courtesy of Google images

Photography Tips (3)

SIMPLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Simple tips on the basics of photography by Trevor James @ www.trevorjamesphotography.com

LIGHT (Natural)

Here we are again, week number three and Photography Tips 3 is here with us. Have you, like me, taken your photos and not looked at the monitor at the rear of the camera until much later, only to find that they were very dark or dark in areas? This image is a typical example of what happens when we aren't paying special attention to the available light.

You too? Phew, there I was thinking that I was the only one that ever did that!

Picking lighting conditions can be a fairly stressful task, especially when you are trying hard to get the image right in the print and yet the camera is telling you one thing in the viewfinder but the monitor is telling you another. The quality of the light falling onto your subject can be either hard or soft and is best determined by either the direction of the sun or objects casting diffusion (e.g., clouds) or shadows, as these will contribute to the strength of lines and patterns, as well as the overall contrast - among other things.

One great way of achieving some understanding of the changes in the light on an image would be to set out by taking a succession of photographs at regular intervals leaving your camera set on a tripod and focussed on your subject. Try this simple exercise on a clear of cloudy day (try both to get a better understanding of how light can be easily diffused on an overcast day). monitor and analyse your findings to see how shadows from directional sunlight can change colour and darkness on your image, or by seeing the varying contracts on the overcast shots.

Photographs taken with mixed lighting or containing mixed lighting will always show differences in the finished colour of the image, this can sometimes be compensated when using Auto White Balance (AWB). It may be that a number of shots are needed taking on board the different light mixtures (Daylight, Tungsten, Fluorescent, street lights, etc.

Other issues can occur when photographing people, still life, and some colour-sensitive subjects with the mixture of lighting as above, or indeed in strong, natural lighting. This can be rather evident when taking photography of areas such as meadows where sunlit grass and the surrounding greenery of shrubs and bushes, etc., or when taken close up portraits of subjects with sunlit greenery. 

One very good resolution to tackling this kind of situation would be to use the Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) mode on your camera. This takes a series of shots that are Under-exposed, Correct- exposed, and Over-exposed, allowing you to manipulate the images by layering them in post production software such as Photoshop or CorelDraw. The following three images is an example of how AEB is used.

There are a number of other elements of light that can have dramatic effects on the finished image, such as, tonal interchange (differences between objects in the picture, such as with portraits). This could be the difference between the direction of the natural or artificial light that shows in the lightest side of the subject and the darkest side and vice-versa; time of day as noted above; superimposed exposures, simply put by the use of more than one image and manipulating an image by using them on the same layer in Photoshop for example, and others. It is important to study your camera's manual and play with the different mode settings that would be able to change the effect of light in your image - and yes, this does also include Aperture, Shutter Speed, White Balance, ISO, etc.

I think you get the picture (excuse the pun)! Photography is not an easy hobby or interest, or indeed business, but it is very interesting and really does exercise that grey matter we contain between those ears of ours.

Next week's blog will be looking at Artificial light - that is the use of studio lighting and flash photography.

If you want to know more about your photography go to My Website or Email Me 


Images, courtesy of Google Images.

Photography Tips (2)

SIMPLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Simple tips on the basics of photography by Trevor James @ www.trevorjamesphotography.com

CORRECT COMPOSITION

Rule of Thirds Graph

Composition, or positioning, within the picture is important in all efforts of achieving success in your photography. Whereas there is that temptation to position your subject in the centre of the frame (picture) for most when beginning photography - and though this may work in symmetrical photography - the finished work soon becomes competitive, and unfruitful, and boring. This graph showing pointers to the four centre square corners (intersecting points) are the principal elements of where subjects are better placed and therefore more pleasing to view. This is known as the Rule of Thirds. The following image makes use of this graph to show brilliantly how the Rule of Thirds is put to work. Some cameras may have this facility in the setting, and if this is the situation my advice would be to make full use of this facility until you have mastered the 'habit'.

Utilising the graph

There is no 'golden rule' that this method should and needs to be adopted per se but should be the base of starting out in photography and creating lively, pleasing images that make good copy for showing at all levels. However, how you do compose the subject, foreground, and background is probably the most important decision you'll make before depressing the shutter release button. Please don't use this as a 'hard and fast rule' but merely as a guide until you master the art of composition - it can be broken. the following image shows how a photograph taken using the subject in the centre of the image and cropped to utilise the Rule of Thirds has totally changed the overall 'pleasingness' of viewing it.

cropping to use the Rule of Thirds

Here you can see why it is important to use and understand this Rule.  The image on the left does not highlight the subject, not does it have any appeal - it is more likely to be a snap shot quickly taken before the subject disappears. But the shot on the right after the use of the cropping tool has produced an very pleasant looking image indeed. 

As we first set out to show, making use of the Rule of Thirds can produce pleasing images that will gather discussion and increase your likelihood of wanting to show them to everyone. This is evidenced in the images above. not using this Rule will nor ender your images unsightly as this is not a hard and fast Rule. 

EXERCISE

When you get the opportunity go out and take some random shots of sceneries, subjects, and the like, and give examples of using the Rule of Thirds in one image and not using it in the other. Compare the images yourself and see what is achieved with either method. Which do you prefer?

Next week we will be looking at probably the very most important element in photography: Light. I guess without it photography may not have even been invented, after all the very nature of the word PHOTO is light.

For further information or what I can offer on my photography courses send me an email highlighting your needs and interests on this link - Contact Trevor

Images courtesy of Google Images

Photography courses in Suffolk

Getting out and about with your camera

Have you got one of those gadgety new DSLR cameras but still having issues taking shots worth showing to your family, let alone putting them on Facebook? 

And when you do you know people are wondering what it was of or what you were trying to focus on?

Perhaps you've been taking photography for years but never really got to understand what happens with digital photography!

Well don't you panic, because help is at hand.

Trevor James Photography is a small but rapidly growing and caring business specialising in four main areas of photography: Wedding photography that offers state-of-the-art, high resolution images that capture every moment to remember forever; Commercial photography that enables businesses to use high quality images to advertise their goods and services to the wider audience via website galleries, portfolios and company profiles; Prints to Buy, where browsers and customers can view and purchase images through the website (in easy format type:A4, 3, & 2 mounted with a back protection); and last but not least, Photography Courses, where guys like you and me get to learn more about what we want with our cameras.

There are four levels of experience and each level has its own schedule of items to go through throughout the day. I do not sit in a classroom - even during the winter months - or stand in front of a huge seminar, I am out 'in the field' with you where I can learn as well. The great thing with photography, and it's pretty much the same with all technology, is that there is always something to learn and someone to teach you. I learn so much through teaching that I have to teach more often. The courses are as follows:

Beginners - 1st Wednesday in the month

On this course you will put into practice camera setup, working with aperture & shutter speed settings, ISO, White Balance, Depth of field, and more. Lunch is not provided and changeable weather clothing is recommended with sturdy footwear.

Novice - 2nd Wednesday in the month

Expanding on the above course we will be getting to understand more of the issues relating to photography including composition and when to break the rules. There are many, many chances to get to grips with taking those fantastic shots. Lunch is not provided and remember to bring appropriate clothing and footwear

Intermediate - 3rd Wednesday in the month

During the day we will be visiting lots of exciting places where we can really get down and understand the meanings of capturing images that get everyone talking. There are things to learn in terms of accurate lens manipulation forcing issues such as breaking all the rules to capture memorable learning moments increasing on the knowledge of your existing level and pushing forward. Lunch is provided on this course and consists of either sandwiches and drinks or a hot pub lunch with a beer to wash everything down

Advanced - 4th Wednesday in the month

These are currently suspended due to some of the changing weather issues as most of the day we disappear to some great locations such as meeting on coastal areas or deep within the English countryside. However when the courses resume this can be probably the best days to remember. Lugging your kit around will more than likely be exciting knowing that we will be using lots of equipment and changing lenses throughout the day. These courses are usually early morning starts and late finishes (around 7am - 6pm).

So there you have it. If you want to get more from your camera, or simply need to brush up or get to grips with digital photography the who better to help you achieve your goals than Trevor James Photography?

To get more information Email me today!

Photography Tips (1)

SIMPLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Simple tips on the basics of photography by Trevor James @ www.trevorjamesphotography.com


FOCUSSING CORRECTLY

How many times has this happened, when you've taken the shot and all looks good in the monitor screen at the rear of the camera, only to get home and upload the image to your computer - and it's blurred ? Well it happens more often than you think, especially when simple elements of the camera setting stage has been missed out (e.g., manual/auto focus, aperture, shutter speed, and movement).


Auto Focus
Most new, and many older lenses, come with an AF/MF (Auto Focus/ Manual Focus) switch somewhere on the side or top of the barrel, and this needs to be switched to one or the other. It is worth noting that if you have it on the AF setting the camera will usually give a beep sound when it confirms being 'in focus' with a particular subject within the lens. Not hearing a beep usually is an indication of MF mode. You need to select one. In this mode the lens will automatically reset itself each time you press the shutter release button half way down - this is 'in focus'.


Manual Focus
If your lens is in this mode you will need to manually set the focus whilst looking through the viewfinder each time before taking the shot. This is done by turning the ring on the lens to achieve clarity of your subject in the viewfinder. Once this is achieved you can then press done the shutter release button to capture the subject matter.


Aperture
Sometimes we may need, or want, to focus the camera on a selective part of the entire framed subject within the viewfinder and leave everything else out of main focus (Depth of Field). In order to carry out this task we simply make a few adjustments  before taking the picture. Firstly, we need to ensure that we have the camera in aperture priority. This is done by turning the mode dial on the camera to A, or AV (some cameras have different letters to indicate this mode). Secondly, we alter the main dial by turning it to the left or the right to set the f/stop (the measure for the amount of depth of focus within the picture). This will allow the camera to also automatically set the shutter release speed (see more below).


Movement
Once you have chosen your subject and focussed in and ready to take the shot, it is really important to ensure you have the camera held still before, during and after the shutter release button has been depressed. If not, no skill in the world will prevent blur in the image. Some point to remember is that when you have set either the aperture or the shutter speed there are given rules about camera shake that need understanding. as a simple rule a tripod should always be used, or to hand. Where an image is to be taken below 1/125 it is recommended to use a tripod to prevent camera shake (some lenses come with 'Camera Shake Prevention' allowing speeds less than 1/125 to be used successfully. Please note that some manufacturers may recommend different speeds than I have, however, I am treading on the side of caution for your benefit. 

Shutter Speed

Again there are two simple things we need to do in order to get this mode working. One, we need to turn the mode dial to S or TV (again depending upon the make of camera), and two, select the speed of the shutter curtains - marked in hundredths of a second and then in seconds - in order to restrict the length of time light is exposed to the sensor. This would not initially caused blurring to an image, however it is important at this stage to note the difference between the use of aperture and shutter modes on a camera. This will automatically allow the camera to set the f/stop (see above).

This is the same image focussed correctly.

I have added in the blur on the image above using Photoshop for the purposes of this blog but, this would be the effect on your computer monitor if you have not gone through the simple checks that I have described above.

The next blog on Simple Photography will be on Composition.

If you want to know more about your photography go to My Website or Email Me